Six dips in natural indigo, aired between each one. Quieter than a synthetic navy, and it holds up far better in light.
Indigo does not dissolve. It is reduced to a colourless form, taken onto the fibre, and then oxidises back to blue in contact with air. So each dip only puts down a little, and depth has to be built up by repeating. Six is where we and the dyehouse settled: any more and the hand starts to go boardy.
No two vats come out identical. If an order has to cross vats we say so up front and send a cutting from each, so the decision is the customer’s rather than a surprise.
Bone figure on a grey-green ground. Thirty years on the same pattern, redrawn four times; the repeat has come in from 32 cm to 26.
Warp one colour, weft another. Tilt it and the colour moves. Nothing is printed: the shift is two coloured yarns taking turns on the face.
Gilt thread on an olive ground, drawn from a seventeenth-century fragment. A 48 cm repeat, and 2,400 cards to weave one of them.
Bring a swatch, a drawing, or just a sentence — "it should drape without going soft" is enough to start. We work backwards from yarn count. Minimum run 30 metres.