Hoarfrost — Shot Satin
Jacquard · 21 momme (79 gsm)Warp one colour, weft another. Tilt it and the colour moves. Nothing is printed: the shift is two coloured yarns taking turns on the face.
Magpie — Brocaded Silk with Gilt
Jacquard · 28 momme (105 gsm)Gilt thread on an olive ground, drawn from a seventeenth-century fragment. A 48 cm repeat, and 2,400 cards to weave one of them.
Pinefall — Self-Figured Damask
Satin · 19 momme (71 gsm)Figure and ground are the same thread. The pattern exists only as a difference in how two structures reflect. Flat light hides it; raking light brings it up.
Indigo Edge — Jacquard Silk
Jacquard · 16 momme (60 gsm)Six dips in natural indigo, aired between each one. Quieter than a synthetic navy, and it holds up far better in light.
Celadon — Scrolling Vine Damask
Jacquard · 22 momme (82 gsm)Bone figure on a grey-green ground. Thirty years on the same pattern, redrawn four times; the repeat has come in from 32 cm to 26.
Rainshed — Water-Repellent Gauze
Leno · 8 momme (30 gsm)An 8 momme gauze given a water-repellent finish. A drop sits on the air trapped between the threads instead of spreading into them.